The arrival of Autumn is special for every Bengali, a curious species of people who hail from the state of West Bengal in eastern India. After all, the autumn blossoms usher in a season of festivities spearheaded by the grandest of them all, Durga Pujo. Although its roots are entwined with the ceremonial worship of Hindu Goddess Devi Durga, in modern Bengal the festival has transcended religious rituals to become a ‘Sarbojonin Utsav’ or a ‘festival that is for everyone’.
It is said that driven away from their heavenly abode by the evil demon Mahishashura, the Gods sought refuge from the Holy Trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Maheshwara (the Creator, the Nurturer and the Destroyer). Upon their counsel, the Gods combined their energies to form Devi Durga, the Mother Goddess who was power personified. The supreme female deity was born in battle armor and had ten hands that bore arms. Her mount, the lion was a gift from the mighty Himalayas. When Durga challenged Mahishashura to battle, the demon dismissed her as a mere woman. However, it was at the hands of this woman that the evil demon finally met his end after fierce battle. Devi Durga stabbed Mahishashura’s heart with the mighty trident, a gift from Shiva, her consort. (It is this image of Ma Durga slaying the demon with her trident that is ceremonially worshipped.) Devi Durga is considered to be the epitome of a number of virtues. She resides as Power, She resides as Peace. She resides as Mother, She resides as Knowledge. She resides as Love, She resides as Valor. Despite her mythical origins, in Bengali literature, Devi Durga appears as a daughter figure who returns home once every year during the five days of Durga Puja with her four children. Thus, as much as this festival celebrates the victory of good over evil, it also celebrates homecoming.
In the early twentieth century, the celebrations of Durga Pujo made its way out of the confines of aristocratic residences into the streets. Each year, for the five days of Durga Pujo, Bengal transforms into a land of fantasies. The city of Kolkata witnesses the largest street art installation festival in the world. Hundreds of structures are erected throughout the city with different themes. Millions throng the streets amidst drum beats, music and smell of delicious street food, catching up with old friends and making new ones.
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